Point taken.

 

By the way @smakmeharder , the distinguishing mark between my Nano and my 120sr is that the 120sr has a blue LED on the tail. It's the blue LED that was on the spare 120 frame I received. The Nano has a red LED on the tail.

 

Nano stripped down to frame! Time to repair broken canopy pins, and re-work LED configuration while I'm at it.... wiring could be done a bit cleaner, maybe add more LEDs. I'll document the LED aspects for @Stuart this time around.

 

I break frame pi a all the time, or I should say my dog does.. I use my nano to walk/run my dog. He chases it and periodically he gets it. And although I've trained him not to destroy it, his initial nip/take down usually results in a canopy or frame pin break. Interested in the suggestion of using a carbon fibre rod mod for canopy fixes.

Stuart
Citizen #507

 

Actually, I'm going to try using rigid steel wire of approximately .25 to .5 mm rigid steel wire. It's small, light, yet rigid with a bit of spring to it. I've also been experimenting with landing skids using same wire, but I haven't quite perfected it yet. I'll document those mods as well as I go.

 

On with the canopy pins!
I an using steel wire at slightly less than 0.5 mm diameter. Form two wires as shown, one bent in middle to clear main shaft. Fit eye ends so that they fit slightly tight inside canopy grommets.
Verify correct location and fit for canopy, then bind wires to frame with cotton thread at old canopy pin stubs, wrapping thread tightly to hold wires in place.
Check canopy again for correct fit, then apply light coat of CA (or super glue) to thread to seal thread and make binding permanent. This process is similar to fiberglass, providing a solid reinforced bond around frame and wires. once CA has set and dried, wired can be gently bent if needed to finalize correct fit.

 

So after assembly, with fresh tail-boom assembly and main motor, I spooled up the Nano for a test flight and it was back to the toilet bowl effect. ...... Upon closer inspection, I found that I had forgotten to install my "swash plate spring". Two minutes later, after correcting my mistake- back to flat and stable hovering. That silly little spring really does make a difference!

 

@ beaver you are the nano king... Great ideas. Well done...

 

I ran a series of test flights to "benchmark" the Nano for flight times, main-blades vs. battery packs. So far, on my newest packs (45C/180mAh) I'm getting an averaged 6.85 minute fly-time (getting 5.5 to 6 min. on my older packs), no LEDs yet, and getting best times using my modified MCPx blades that I've cut down to 85mm and reduced thickness of root to fit Nano grips. Also running slightly smaller tail rotor blade to get RPM up a bit on tail. Will run times again after LEDs re-installed.

 

Okay..... I've tolerated the Nano's brushed main-motor failures one time too many. They have one main flaw: The commutator are weak and with moderate use, the brushes eat grooves into the commutator causing the metal pads to wear through, then no less than one pole piece flakes off causing a "dead spot" in the armature. Time for the brushless mod kit !!

 

Let me know how that goes

Stuart
Citizen #507

 

Yes... I will @Stuart . I've read mixed reviews on the BL kit. The one from HH is reported to occasionally fry the Rx board, but who knows if the user installed it correctly. I can see how connecting signal wires backwards in the motor socket would fry the FET. It is rumored that HH will replace Rx and ESC if it happens. Other reports say the soldering on the ESC has been known to be a bit dodgy, but I can deal with that problem if it becomes an issue. 45C packs are recommended, but I have those already. I have seen "aftermarket" out runner kits for a few dollars more, that are reported to have higher output, but at the cost of shorter fly times and having to mod the frame, I think I will skip the out runner for now.

 

BLH3325 Brushless Upgrade for Nano ordered today. It won't arrive a moment too soon..... next week, then maybe the little monster will have a little more power to work with. Unfortunately I will have to relocate the LED I had soldered to the Rx board to make room for the ESC. Back to the drawing board with the LEDs (I was going to refit them anyway).

 

Going to pick up the BL mod kit later this morning.....

 

BL kit acquired! Can't wait to try it later. ...... although I'm a little suspicious of the itty-bitty little main leads.

 

I can promise you @Beaver the brushless kit will make a big difference. It has in all of the other models i have used so i cant see why this would be an exception. More power, more efficiency more speed.

 

So far, I've only had time to drop in the motor and do a quick spool-up. Definitely higher head speed!

 

Okay... so far the BL kit seems to be living up to the hype. Higher head speed, more punch on the collective even with my modded [mCPx] blades. Some of the reviews complained of tail blowout, but not in my case. No changes to trimmings, Nano still maintains a fairly steady hover enough to get a couple of piros out of it before it starts drifting. The ESC arming beeps are just cute. I'm not sure I like the motor-braking effect on throttle down. BTW.... thanks for showing me the weak blade grip @Crash Heligod, I'll be needing a new set of those now. It could have been the extra motor torque, or the link ball may have simply been fatigued and ready to break.... either way, Nano mysteriously decided to get intimate with a nearby wall. Aluminum grips may be in order.... and probably an Al swash plate as well.

 

Reoccurring thought...... 4-blade head NanoCPx. The stock swash plate already has 4 horns on it.... it can't be that hard to machine an aluminum hub.... Finding the proper screws to hold the grips might be the challenge.

 

If you could make a 4 bladed head work.... that would be something else @Beaver. The amout of cyclic collective authority would be insane!!!! it would really be a monster mini smak machine. You may need a bigger tail and possibly smaller blades or lower RPM. But if it worked... WOW